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Created by Templates Zoo

Motorcycle Paradise

Chain gang

I am back to a motorcycle with a chain. I will miss the clean and quiet belt drive of my Buell however the CB1100 does have a centre stand and that makes a world of difference to chain maintenance.

It must be a very long time since I owned a motorcycle with a centre stand. Cleaning the rear wheel is a cinch and same for cleaning and lubing the chain.

I sourced one of these chain brushes in preparedness for returning to a chain drive. The experts claim it is the cleanliness of your chain, keeping it free of grit that will extend it’s life more than whatever brand of chain lube you choose to apply.

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This is a clone of the brand name brush sourced cheap from eBay. It does the job claimed.

To go with the brush and that advise to clean the chain often I am using Inox chain cleaner. Sourced it from Autobarn car accessory  stores. Slightly cheaper than the motorcycle brand chain cleaners and fully o-ring chain safe, the availability was the real selling point. Motorcycle shops here only trade outside office hours for a 1/2 day Saturday morning which is really inconvenient.

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The Honda owners manual says to use only gear oil to lube the chain. Sounds sensible suggestion given it is the meshing of the drive sprockets against rollers that you are wanting to run free but it would be messy.

There are all sorts of theories on motorcycle forums about how to lube a chain. It really is not rocket science like some try and make it out to be. Any lubricant will for a certain period work to stop the cog Vs roller contact area from drying out. Remember inside the rollers is sealed and does not benefit from whatever you use. It is only the contact area you need to lube so whatever you find that will stay on for the time you leave between reapplying more lube is going to work. Then it is just a case of managing the fling factor Vs too dry.

I am trying the Inox ‘No Chukka’ lube out. I purchased it just because the name is so appealing. But seriously I find their products to be honest and work without any bullshit secret formula or spin so I thought I’d give it a go. I have previously tried most lubes on the market and found chains dried out less with the more messy ones then any of the wax or grease type but your experience may vary. I was very tempted to try a dry Teflon chain lube out but the problem is how do you tell when it needs to be reapplied.

If you have any tips feel free to share as this is a real topical subject.

5 comments

  1. I still don't like chains although many pretty bikes are equipped with this drive. Applying the right lube is a religion for itself, and I believe in Dupont Teflon Spray.

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  2. I have read good reviews of Dupont Teflon spray. Despite Dupont saying Repco are retailers for it in Australia I have so far not seen it on sale there or anywhere else here.

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  3. I took the bike for a small ride and so much for the "no chucka" label, back wheel is already splattered.

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  4. Motul Chain Lube Road, myself and my mechanic swear by it. Never flings, stays on for a very long time and penetrates well.
    Give it a try and see how you go.

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  5. I tried WD40 on a chain from new. Every tank up (about 300km) I would lube. The chain started to develop tight spots. Changed it out at 23,000. Switched to Lanotec Lanolin. Works a treat. Stays on. No messy fling. Also sprayed on after every 300 clicks. Only issue, you need to clean it more as it's stickier than most and dirt can stick to it - and you don't want a oil/dirt paste to grind your sprockets. Chain was good still, but the stickiness was annoying so have switched to Belray after 14,000 of Lanotec with no signs of wear. Chain seems more quiet now as I spin the wheel while bike's on centre stand. So far so good. Only available at Brisbane Motorcycles though. Pro and Team Homo don't stock it.
    I figure, use whatever floats your boat, just clean and lube often.

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